Whether we admit it or not, clear skin is something everyone wants to have, and one way we can achieve this is through a good skincare regimen. The challenge, however, is in choosing the right products. It can be especially difficult for those with sensitive skin such as myself, as certain ingredients might only aggravate the problems rather than solve them. Hence, when we discover a product that can (supposedly) gently but effectively address our skin concerns, you bet it’s automatically added to our shopping carts!
The Cos De Baha Azelaic Acid 10 Serum is a mild yet potent option that has been a game-changer for many. Although, It is one of those products that must be used consistently for longer periods in order to see significant improvements. It contains a few additional moisturizing and soothing ingredients too, making it a suitable choice for azelaic acid beginners. On top of this, it is cheaper—at least when I got it on sale—than similar serums from other more well-known brands.
Powered by 10% azelaic acid, the serum claims to not only treat acne scars and hyperpigmentation, but soothe rosacea, brighten skin, and help repair damaged tissues as well. Specifically, it works by minimizing TLR-2 activity, which is what stimulates cells’ series of immune responses and triggers inflammation. Although a crucial role, overactivity can lead to excessive and inappropriate inflammation, such as those seen in cases of rosacea and severe acne, so azelaic acid addresses this by sort of lowering the receptors’ sensitivity to its environment. For hyperpigmentation, it acts as a tyrosinase-inhibitor, suppressing the very enzyme necessary for the production of the pigment-causing melanin.
While 10% may seem like a high amount, it is actually the minimum concentration considered to be useful in the treatment of acne and rosacea. On the other hand, those with severe acne might need to opt for higher concentrations, whereas those with sensitive skin may want to give lower concentrations a try first. Additionally, the serum contains aloe leaf extract, panthenol, niacinamide, and camellia sinensis to help fight inflammation and aid in barrier repair.
The best thing about Cos De Baha products has to be their packaging. Each item can easily be distinguished by its bottle and label color. The directions, expiration date, and ingredient list are also visible on the label, with the active ingredients—and sometimes their concentrations—even printed on the front. Its azelaic acid serum, in particular, comes in a deep tinted bottle with a gold dropper and a maroon label.
The serum itself has no apparent scent or color. In terms of consistency, it is on the thicker side, sort of resembling snail slime. Having said that, it isn’t the easiest liquid to spread, but I find that applying it within 30 seconds of using a toner enhances its spreadability. Given its slimy texture, it naturally feels sticky upon application. It takes a while for your skin to completely absorb the fluid, but once it has, that tackiness disappears.
Admittedly, while the directions said to apply 1-2 drops of the product either in the morning or in the evening, I decided to apply, instead, 3-4 drops in the morning and in the evening. I guess I thought my skin could handle its potency—boy, was I wrong. After just 4 days of use, my skin did feel noticeably smoother, but it was tighter and drier too. Hence, I immediately switched it up, applying only 3 drops once a day. Specifically, I kept the azelaic acid serum in my evening routine, applying a drop on each cheek and on the forehead.
I was doubtful at first. I read a lot of good things about the product, so not getting the results I wanted at the earlier stages made me think it wasn’t for me. As it turns out, however, my skin just needed time to adjust. During the first couple of weeks, mild and temporary redness occurred where the serum was applied, and my skin began to purge. There was also a slight burning sensation which I initially associated with the high temperatures, but don’t worry as such reactions are inevitable when using a concentrated skincare product for the first time—which was the case for me. In fact, it wasn’t until over a month of use did it start to significantly improve the condition of my skin.
As promised by the brand, my acne spots had faded and my breakouts were reduced, or otherwise kept at bay. My skin also remained smooth throughout my journey with this azelaic acid serum from Cos De Baha. Additionally, it did seem to help calm down my rosacea as well as reduce the oil production on my cheeks and forehead. As for the condition of the product, I noticed sediments on the bottle neck after only a few weeks of use. When this happens, the brand suggests to simply soak the bottle in warm water for 5-15 minutes. They clarified that since azelaic acid is, first and foremost, a compound that exists as white powder, sedimentation on the bottle and in the serum itself is a normal reaction.
**Everyone’s skin is different. What works/doesn’t work for me may not/may work for you. Remember to check the ingredient list and do a patch test before using any new skincare product.
After cleansing and toning, apply 1-2 drops of serum at morning or night. Please do a patch test on skin before use.
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, moisturizer/humectant
Azelaic Acid: anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, brightening
Panthenol: anti-inflammatory, moisturizer/humectant, skin barrier repair
Niacinamide: anti-inflammatory, skin barrier repair, brightening
Sodium Hyaluronate: moisturizer/humectant
Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract: antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial
Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract: antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory
Main reference (ingredient functions): INCI Decoder (https://incidecoder.com/)
FULL INGREDIENT LIST (according to the product label): *Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Propylene Glycol, Azelaic Acid (10%), Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Propanediol, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate (0.2%), Sodium Citrate, *Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, *Momordica Charantia Fruit Extract, *Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract, *Leontopodium Alpinum Extract
*Mark: N.O.I.P 51%